Leaving Ft. Collins, I again drive by Horsetooth Reservoir and up into the mountains. US 34 runs along the Big Thompson River through a rock canyon. This is what Colorado is all about. The 20 or so big horn sheep along the road reinforces that idea. They appear to have a run-in with an overzealous sheep farmer as their fur looks freshly sheered. In reality, they are loosing their winter coat. I pull over on the shoulder to watch them which causes the sheep to scamper up a sheer vertical rock face with the ease of walking down a sidewalk. Now I'm the show as they stare down at me.

One of my favorite views is in Estes Park looking west. The entrance to the Rocky Mountain National Park is just ahead.

At the entrance, the ranger and I start talking and I recognize him as the ranger who sold me the Golden Eagle Pass last year. With a total of 3 trips into this park alone at $20.00 apiece, the pass has saved me $10.00. This doesn't count all the other parks I've been in since.

As we are talking, 4 coyotes come out of the hills and run across the road right in front of us. A few feet up the road is a big heard of elk.

Up is the correct term as I'm now climbing. There are several motorcycles coming through the park, probably as many as there are cars. This is surprising since it is darn cold. At several places the snow is piled 20 ft deep along the roadside. One either side of the highest point in the park, serious looking snow removal equipment is stationed. If I hadn't mentioned how cold it is, well, it is! That might explain the white stuff. Two days later, this road would be closed due to a snowfall.

A short drive down a dirt road nets me a nice close-up view of the river. Just after that, I'm out of the park heading toward Steamboat Springs over Rabbit Ear Pass. I've been lucky with the rain and seem to be turning toward the only blue in the sky. My luck runs out on Rabbit Ear Pass as it starts to rain. In just 20 miles I'm out of it and it appears I'll stay out of it for the rest of the day.

In the next town, Craig, CO, I stop for lunch and gas. I haven't decided where I'll call it a day, but Dinosaur National Monument is my current plan. When I'm filling up with gas, I notice a small drop of oil back by the rear end. If it is the seal leaking, that has happened before. I'll get it replaced in Salt Lake City, where I'm planning on getting an oil change and front tire anyway. Just 18 miles west of Craig, the rear end is getting loose and then all the oil comes out. Crap. Can't I have one vacation on a BMW without trouble? I put the best synthetic oil in the rear end and change it more often than required. This really stinks.

Fortunately, my cell phone doesn't work out here. It's a long way back to Craig and I don't want to leave the bike alone. I'm going to try to drive back on the shoulder. At the first farm house I see a car parked outside, knock on the door, and proceed to scare the heck out of the poor woman inside. I don't imagine she sees many strangers out here, nor one of my size. Through the door, I explain that I've broken down and would like to use her phone. She hands it to me through the door. After listening to me, she decides I'm not a threat and invites me in.

I make the usual calls to the towing company (I should have this on speed dial by now). BMW of Grand Junction is the nearest dealer. They won't help me as they have to much work already. Is this the same dealership I dealt with last summer? I thought Missoula was further north. Here we go again.

Northern Colorado BMW/Ducati will work on my bike if I can get it to them. This is the same great dealership I stopped in last week. A week ago they mentioned that they were really booked for 3 weeks for service, but here they are helping a stranded motorcyclist get back on the road. Thank heaven for quality/caring dealerships. They are few and far between.

Now for the tow. It's a 200+ mile tow to Loveland and should cost a fortune. With a BMW you just pay and pay and pay...A U-haul truck will cost $300 one-way if there was one available in Craig, which there isn't. The towing company tells me that it will be a couple of hundred dollars out of my own pocket. I can swallow that and start the process. The husband of the lady who let me use her phone offers to trailer me to Craig where I'll stay for the night.

In the morning, the driver is there and we haul the bike back to Steamboat. He's also carrying another person back with him which makes the cab crowded and uncomfortable. In Steamboat I stop at the towing company and the story changes. The cost is now $650 with $550 out of my own pocket. I tell the owner to pull the bike off the trailer and I'll work out something else. When I mention the cost of the U-haul, my cost drops to $350.00. Amazing. This is still high, but I'll take it since it is close to the U-haul price and I can get to Loveland around noon.