Today will be a short 60 mile day to Guanajuato and
the timing is great. Mike has got the beginnings of Montezuma’s Revenge
and we are both ready to be off the bikes. When we wake up we walk out on
a small 3rd floor patio across from our room and see hot air
balloons floating above one of the many churches on an absolutely
perfect morning. We eat a leisurely breakfast at the same restaurant as
last night and I get my fix of Huevos y Chirizos. A taxi takes us to our
bikes. The back seats of these taxis aren’t made for big guys like me
and I almost need the jaws of life to get out.
Back on the bikes, we pass two reservoirs on the way out of
town. Drinking out of one of the two would kill your children
back in the states. I half expect a four eyed fish to come
walking across the road. The other reservoir looked potable.
Down Hwy 51 to 45 the road is great as is the
temperature. It looks like a local bicycle club is out for a ride/race
and have the local police as traffic control. We even pass a motorcycle
tour group heading the other way where most of the bikes are Stroms.
Tour group! We don’t need no stinkin’ tour group. Adventure Touring
doesn’t begin with a fifty-percent deposit.
One of our fears on this trip are the roads in
Guanajuato. The town is built in a canyon and the roads follow the
meanderings of the earth’s contour. Since the architecture in the town
is protected you can’t put in a main highway. Instead, they dug under
the town and put in the most bizarre set of tunnels you will ever see.
Picture the flow of roads in a regular Mexican village and then bury
those same roads. A single tunnel will have several merging roads. Heck
with testing the Mars Rover in the desert, bring it here.
A second fear we have is not finding a motel
easily. Upon entering town the signs are great and we settle on the
Hotel Real de Minas, whose entrance looks like the entrance to a castle.
Our room is one of the best of the trip and the hotel has all the
amenities. We’ll take a cab into town later.
Our plan changes slightly thanks to the desk clerk
and we take a taxi to the statue of El Papila. Papila is one of the many
heroes of the Mexican War for Independence. Carrying a flat stone on his
back to protect himself from musket fire, he set the door of the granary
on fire. Inside the Spanish barricaded themselves along with the riches
of the area. The statue sits on a hill overlooking the city at over
6,000 ft. Getting there via a cab was a great choice. Everything is
downhill from this point.
We climb the narrow stairway and ladder to the top of the
statue. At the top is a small 6x6 foot clear plastic cubicle
right behind the head and arm of the statue. Eight of us are
crammed into this area whose floor is ½ ladder entrance. OSHA
would go absolutely nuts if they saw this arrangement. On the
one hand, I feel like a rat trapped in a Plexiglas box and there
are even 'air' holes cut into the corners. On the other hand,
the view and experience are worth the climb.
At the bottom of the statue we get a better view of
the city. This must be one of the top ten views in all of Mexico. From
this vantage point the city fills the canyon below from left to right
and every color in the palette is used on the buildings. How can we ever
leave this view? How can I ever look at another city without it paling
in comparison? Certainly it isn’t a modern city but it is a city with
culture and history. There lies its charm.
After looking down at the city from above it dawns
on us that we are looking at a 3D version of our map. Once we figure out
where everything is, we have a snack of fruit from a local vendor and
head to the incline railway that takes you down a 42 degree incline into
the city. I promptly lose the ticket I just bought and have to pay the
conductor a couple of bucks to get in the car. Later that ticket would
reappear and become a souvenir. At least that’s what I’m going to call
it.
Most of the city is a pedestrian mall and it’s easy
to get around. Every corner has a quintessential church, museum, park or
view. Since the beauty of the surroundings has overloaded my senses what
else can be said. To the right of the big church (above picture) is the
Juarez Theater. With the flight of steps out front, this area
becomes a mini-outdoor theater.
Across from the church is a wonderful plaza that
is almost completely covered with a tree canopy. The plaza is
lined with outdoor cafe and benches upon which babies go from an
idea to a reality. Tongue is a popular dish among the young
crowd. Wandering around the city we are taken by the
architecture and serenity, even with the crowds.
We take in the Don Quixote Museum that has every rendition
of the great knight, and then head to the Diego Rivera museum.
After that we sit in an outdoor café on the Plaza de La Paz and have a
snack. It is a Saturday and there are a lot of people and vendors. Mike
is in heaven and he would still be there today if he didn’t realize his
tourist visa would eventually expire.
After a snack we wander down the street to a merchants market
which is housed in what appears to be a large hanger. I can't
imagine trying to land a plane anywhere near this town. The
market is a combination of souvenir stands and a
large grocery market. For the most part, the second floor houses
the souvenirs while the ground floor has the food. In the future
you are going to smell things that are an affront to the senses.
It's just a part of life. Take a walk back to the area where the
butchers are working and you will have a point of comparison for
future smells.
Once we leave the market it's easy to hail a cab for the
trip to the motel. It’s going to be hard to beat this
day and this city. The motel is quiet and I sleep like a rock.