On the way back to the cuota through the town of Chichen Itza we pass at least 100 police, many of whom are in full riot gear. What’s going on? We’ve seen a little bit of news about a Pemex refinery taken over by rebels. Can this be related? Could there be a more visible spot in Mexico for a protest than outside Chichen Itza?

The cars in the other direction are being searched, but we pass through and are soon on the cuota headed east to 295 north and Ek Balam. The site is small and is still being excavated as are all the Mayan sites. We have the place to ourselves. Don, the runner, is on top of the pyramid in a hurry. Mike, the runner, is up in a hurry. Greg, the couch potato, is taking the full Mayan calendar to crawl up. Our shoes and boots echo as we climb the stairs. Is the pyramid hollow? Often one pyramid was built on top of another as was the case at Chichen Itza.

Sweat, heart-attack, sore knees aside, I wouldn’t trade this view for the world. We can make out the big pyramid at Chichen Itza, but can’t find Coba. On the steps near where we are sitting are huge iguanas, one of which is big enough to eat our arms. As one iguana comes toward us I notice Don creeping away. The rest of the site has many carvings including Mayan Angels.

	We retrace our steps and follow 295 south though Vallodolid. Town names are getting more bizarre and I can’t even guess at the pronunciation. Tuxcalpupu and Chiqundzonat almost sound Hawaiian. The road is free of trucks on this Sunday morning and we are flying. At the border of Quintana Roo the guards aren’t very interested in us. The town of Felipe Carrillo Puerto is having a bicycle race. Don raises his arms in victory as he crosses the finish line.

At the turnoff to Chetumal we decide to go on the Xpuhil instead since we are making great time and the weather is good, as in cloudy but not raining. At a gas stop we realize that we are as far away from home as we will get. Turning toward home is always a good feeling. Belize is a mile south, but we decide not to go that direction.

	There are a few small banana farms along 186 west and a few towns. The items packed on the top of vehicles amazes us. We are looking forward to staying in the Zoh Laguan village and have images of sleeping in the jungle with monkeys climbing in the trees. The reality is that there aren’t many places to stay for the evening.

 

Our small 2 room hotel is being refurbished and does not have air-conditioning, but somehow doesn’t need it. The owner, Rocky and his wife and 4 kids are great and they also make our dinner. Next to the motel the town is having a religious service and the voices are wonderful. Kids are racing horses down the street. If you want to get up at 4 am, you can take a tour to see jaguars and monkeys. Even though we are a little disappointed in the setting, we are still happy to be here.