The morning temps are great as we leave the “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell” Motel and head south looking for breakfast which we find quickly. We followed the pattern of looking for where the trucks stop. Mike and I are charged to have an authentic Mexican breakfast. Mike is at an advantage because he can read the menu. I can say Huevos y Chorizo and I can survive with those 3 small words. Don orders a sacrilegious bowl of oatmeal and white toast. There is a reason that Don is in much better shape than I am.

We don’t know it yet, but we will soon be entering Topes Hell. A topes is an insidious little device developed by the Mexican Government in conjunction with both the Welder’s and Dental Unions. They are raised mounds of asphalt placed at the beginning and end of towns to slow traffic. The reality is that no matter how slow you go they tear out the bottom of your vehicle and rattle you fillings to the point that they fall out. Some of these are marked and some aren’t. For ‘fun’ there will be warnings of upcoming topes and then there won’t be any. Those are infinitely better than the unmarked ones.  Topes warning signs are hidden behind trees and welded into the floors of ancient Volkswagen Beetles.

These topes take several forms from Vibradores to car ramps to a series of closely raised ridges.  Micro economies develop around them with people selling pineapple juice, water, soda, newspapers and a variety of legumes while you are slowing down for the bump. We discover that they are excellent places to pass a line of traffic.

The town of Alna gives us our first indication that traffic will be bad. The town contains a very interesting sculpture along 180 showing the wealth of fruits available in the area. We continue on through small towns selling nothing but bananas and coconuts. Now, if someone would only sell the topes, but who would buy them?

Poza Rica almost makes us throw in the towel. Topes, drive 5 ft, Topes, drive 5 ft, ad infinitum. Let me revel in the experience yet a little more. At every topes there is a line of vehicles consisting of a double 40 ft trailer combination, at least 1 bus, several smaller trucks, a few dump trucks and an assortment of other vehicles. Get around this group and do it again at the next topes. You may notice that some Topes are capitalized and some topes are not. That’s because they are all of different heights. You can get over the topes without any damage, but the Topes are frame scrapers.

Entering town we get pulled over by the army at a checkpoint, not that any cars are being pulled over. In between, in town is Pemex central as block after block contains their offices and drilling operation. Security is tight. On the far side of town we get to experience yet another army checkpoint and end up paying them to tell us where El Tajin Ruins are. I thought it diminished the soldier’s status somewhat by their begging for change. Nevertheless, signs are a problem and directions are a must. We pass under a beautiful pedestrian walkway.

	El Tajin is great! Once we get by all the vendors, and there are enough of them so we don’t know where the road or parking is, we park and pay someone to watch the bikes. I’ve planned for this and have shorts and tennis shoes ready to go. The boys are in their motorcycle pants and boots. It pays to be fat. The site is large and you feel as if you are living with the Mayans. Construction began in the first century! One of the main structures is the Pyramid of the Niches which contains 365 niches, one for each day of the year. The structure would have originally been painted red. Seeing that structure next to the ball court must have been a magnificent sight. No matter who won or lost the ball game, someone was going to die. Even the winners believed it was an honor to sacrifice themselves.

At the entrance to the site, the Voladores, flyers, were performing. These flyers climb to the top of a 75 foot pole. There are 4 flyers and one musician. The musician stands on a small platform at the top of the pole playing a flute/drum combinations while dancing on the platform. The flyers hang upside down unwinding themselves on ropes wrapped around the pole. The motion is almost hypnotic as they twirl slowly in their brightly colored costumes.

All too soon it is back to topes Hell. Construction adds to the excitement where bridge lanes are completely missing and the shoulder becomes a 10 ft drop. We catch glimpses of the gulf and yearn to be in the water. The heat is making us sick and we stop for ½ hour in the shade of a Pemex Gas Station store.

At the harbor, or first motel choice is overpriced. The second motel, which is like an arctic oasis in the heat, has no rooms. We hit on the Santander Motel which is cheap and has rooms with 3 beds. The downside is that there is no parking nearby and it is difficult to unload our luggage in the traffic. We park on the sidewalk which gets a policeman’s attention. He gives us a few minutes to unload our stuff into the lobby. In the states, we would not be given that option. Fortunately, the motel has an agreement with a parking garage a few blocks away.

On the way to the garage, we discover the town square, which is beautiful. Along the water are docks and a Naval building. After a shower we head to the square with its church and great architecture and eat at Sanborn's. In the square, people are dancing and the music is mesmerizing. Tour buses are adorned with lights and vendors are selling their wares. We are in the real Mexico now, but need to cut back on the miles tomorrow since 212 miles almost killed us today.