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The reason I moved to Florida is that water
tends to stay in a liquid state. When I walked out to the bike this
morning my spare water was trying hard to be in a solid state. Some of it
was succeeding. I'm not sure, but the lack of feeling in my extremities is
probably related. |
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Layer, layer, layer and we are off. Our first
stop is Pemex. These government run gas stations are like a tiny oasis of
cleanliness and organization amid the chaos. Many of them have small
convenience stores, but not all. The gas prices are reasonable and exact
change is open to interpretation. |
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We're heading west along Highway 16 to
Basaseachic Falls (which has numerous spelling). Along the way we see
apple orchards again. The altitude is around 7,000 ft. and these perfectly
pruned trees have no leaves. Above the trees are a system of cloth shades
that can be pulled to cover the trees in the heat of the summer. The scale
of this operation is impressive. |
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This will become a running theme, but the road
west has stunning scenery and is constantly changing direction. The
further west we get the better it gets. The surface of the road is a
different story. Most of the cars we've seen have never been serviced and
use the south of the border oil change technique. As the oil drips out the
bottom it is replaced up top. We gingerly take corners because the road
has a glassy looking appearance, especially on uphill grades where more
oil leaks out. If the road surface isn't enough, oncoming traffic will
pass anywhere. Also there are these big, four-legged furry containers of
milk and these very large dogs that make a hee-haw sound. Driving is
invigorating. Just as my confidence gets up my rear wheel breaks loose and
brings me back to reality. As we get further from towns the road surface
gets better. |
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We are almost at the falls and are
driving through a beautiful canyon. There is some snow here, but the
temperature is decent. Before the day is over we'll have passed the 9,000
ft. mark. One more Federali checkpoint and we are in the park.
This is not your typical US park and there is some question whether we
are in a park our not. At the parking area to the falls is one other car,
but they are leaving. We lock everything up and take a very short walk to
the overlook. |
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The scene rivals anything the US parks have to offer, and
that's saying a lot. On the other side of a deep canyon, pouring over a
huge rock face is Mexico's largest waterfall (there is some speculation as
to whether it is #1 or #2). We are dumbstruck. Mexico and it's people
don't have a clue as to what they have here. This is a "must
see" park and not terribly far from the border. |
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Reluctantly we leave and head down a dirt road
to Creel. The only reason we know we are on the right road is because a
passing driver told us so. There are no signs at all. I felt we were on
the Ponderosa with the mountains and pine forests. The smells are
wonderful, which is not something I say often in Mexico.
It's slow going in the dirt but entirely passable. There are even some
trucks coming in the opposite direction. Some seem to want to use us for
traction. |
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I've programmed the GPS for a "crow
flies" route to Creel. There are times when the road twisted so
tightly upon itself that the odometer would show 3 miles of movement, but
the GPS would show we were no closer. It was slow dusty going. We were
having a blast and even stopped and had a snowball fight. Well, I have to
admit that I started it. |
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Once a four-wheel drive truck passed
us we were able to pick up the pace and were occasionally going 50 mph. We
let him clear out the corners for us. In San Juanito we again picked up
the pavement and dashed down to Creel. This is a funky town. The sidewalks
alone are a lawyer's dream.
It also appears to be a crossroads for the world as many nationalities
are represented here. There are a lot of hikers. |
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There are many choices for motels
here and we want to be cheap but clean. We make a circle through town
checking things out. Man, there are a lot of stray dogs here. Along the
main street we are waved over by a hawker. He asks us if we are looking
for a motel. Si. We are skeptical, but he shows us a nice, off the beaten
path, small motel for $35.00 US. If you can handle 13 Spanish channels and
no phone, what the heck. Best Western in town is almost $100.00 US. |
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Let's talk about food, my favorite subject. We
are careful about our water sources, but pretty much eat what we want. We
choose reputable establishments rather than pushcarts. So far on my trips
to Mexico, so good. Forrest and I have developed a restaurant rating
system. In the US great restaurants have great onion rings and great apple
pie. Here is Mexico it is based on salsa/chips and flan. Tonight's
restaurant didn't have flan so it failed. |
