Day 4-Cuauhtemoc, MX-March 19

Mexico. Si!
We watched the morning sky in Presidio from outside the motel and commented on the colors. I used to see the same colors in paintings in the Best Western Motels as a kid. They appeared to be cheesy cowboy art. Now I know that the artists were just painting what they saw. The colors in the morning sky were not real.
border.jpg (25787 bytes) We cross the border and it's time to do paperwork. This couldn't be easier. First we get the tourist visa since we'll be in longer than 72 hours and past the border zone. This costs us 205 pesos which must be paid at a bank rather than at the border. We'll do that when we exchange money.

Next we get our vehicle permits which guarantees that we won't leave the vehicle in Mexico. When you leave the country these permits must be turned in. This permit must be paid with a credit card and the cost was about $22.00 which included a $1.00 copying fee. Forrest almost doesn't get his paperwork since the clerk neglects to give it to him. This is a scary trend we will begin to notice. A lot of the people in this position are not very competent and only know how to do one specific task. The motorcycles confused this clerk.

monument.jpg (30760 bytes) We asked about leaving the country and were told that we could show our vehicle papers at the border and we would be done. Remember that. About 20 miles from the Ojinaga border crossing we showed our vehicle permits at a checkpoint and we were official.
cemetery.jpg (36652 bytes) If you have the opportunity to drive the road from Ojinaga to Chihuahua City you must do it. Viewing the mountain valleys and sweeping vistas makes a man want to wax poetic or at least wax something. One valley was no more than 1 mile wide with huge peaks surrounding it. Religious statues and shrines were everywhere. Some of them had recently lit candles inside.
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We went through our first Federali checkpoint. Understanding was at a premium. He didn't speak a word of English and my knowledge of Spanish was modest at most. His big rifle did send a clear message. We muddled through. These folks are very tolerant and polite. He asked me about Forrest who was next in line. I meant to say he was Mi Amigo (my friend). What came out was Mi Hombre (my man), at which the soldier's eyes got huge and he broke out laughing. I immediately said, "No, no, no." Forrest didn't know what was going on and had a confused smile on his face. I've never seen a Federali laugh or even smile before. Clearly this broke the ice and we were through the checkpoint.
chihuahua.jpg (23377 bytes) Chihuahua City has about half a million inhabitants and looks somewhat nice from the north. Driving through the city reminds you of where you are. Every stop light is like the beginning of a Gran Prix Race. Drive aggressively or die. We are sitting on one side of the light in 4 lanes of traffic. Lane is a very loose term. On the other side of the light are two lanes. We have the power to weight ratio, but we don't have the timing.

We find a bank and exchange money. We also pay the 205 peso charge for our tourist visa. Most banks we find have guarded parking.

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Leaving town we are not impressed with tiny shop after shop selling worthless trinkets. Every other shop seems to be a mini 7-11 with a few sodas and snacks. Mopeds are everywhere. Dominos had a fleet of them. Thirty minutes or less wouldn't be a concern the way these guys drive. We even saw a BMW K1200LT go by and he blew his horn. As if receiving a gift from above, a police officer offered to lead us out of town. Cool.
sanfran.jpg (29106 bytes) We happen across the toll road to the west. In reality we found it on the GPS with the world map CD loaded. The roads don't match up perfectly with your actual position, but it sure helped having the GPS. Things were going well, except for the wind straight out of Dante's Inferno. I decide we need a "short cut" and head to San Francisco de Borja. The map showed the road went through to Creel. Silly map. Stupid gringo.

In San Fran the local constable couldn't take a couple of seconds away from his Reader's Digest to be civil or, heaven forbid, helpful. That's ok, in a couple of weeks I'll be sitting in Florida and he'll still be here. Left on our own we still couldn't find the road, even with the GPS and Forrest's nice set of maps. The road we were on appeared to be a farmer's driveway and it's time to turn around, swallow my pride, and head back up the same road we came down. On the positive side the road was a great road.

With a small crimp in our schedule, whatever that is, we get back on the toll road. The cost is about $13 US and takes us to Cuauhtemoc for the night. Without thinking about it we were at 6,700 ft. No wonder it is so cold and why there are so many apple trees in the Chihuahua desert.