The pay at the pump doesn’t seem to be working even
after trying multiple pumps. A trip inside the store doesn’t bode well
for an early departure. Inside there is a line of 10 very disgruntled
customers. I hand off my card and fuel up, and then I’m back in the
queue. Apparently, this is a daily occurrence. Lucky me. At least I only
have to experience it once.
I may get wet today, but I can’t tell yet. The Weather
Channel states that it should be raining right now. Just to be
sure it isn’t, I lift up my faceshield and stare at the sky.
Nope, no rain. How could they possibly be wrong?
A pleasant surprise waits me up the road in the Wind River Canyon. The
canyon is an amazing collection of boulders and colors. This would be
the perfect place to hold an ambush as the river is the only path
through the canyon and the walls are sheer cliffs.
Cody seems like a nice little town and the people
are friendly. This is in contrast to most of the cruiser crowd I pass on
the highway. Hardly anyone waves. Most of the traffic is heading west
into Yellowstone. I’m heading north toward Beartooth and will skip
Yellowstone on this trip.
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I turn onto the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway for the first
time and wonder how I could ever have missed this jewel of a
road. I’ve been on many roads from Prudhoe Bay in Alaska to
north of Mexico City. This road is fantastic and instantly
vaults into my top five for beauty. The Nez Pierce were in this
area and I can picture them walking through these valleys. As
I’m taking a picture and enjoying the solitude of the area the
silence is broken by a pair of bikes with straight pipes. I can
hear them for 5 minutes as the noise echoes off the valley
walls. Will this be another area closed off to motorcycles?
The skies are getting cloudier and the rain begins. As strange as it
sounds, I like Beartooth Pass when the weather is like this. For some
reason I couldn't remember the direction to Bear Tooth pass and thought
it was to the west. After about 5 miles the road turns to gravel and
mud. In Cooke City, I turn around and head back through the
construction. As it turns out, I could have avoided the mud if I had
turned right instead of left.
I started to head over the pass. On many lists,
this is the most beautiful road in America. I can't decide. Don't get me
wrong, it is breathtaking, but it just has to be hit at the right time.
I was running in and out of clouds all the way up. The road reminds me
of the Alaska Highway along the Wrangall-St. Elias Mountain Range.
The first thing I noticed was that my GPS only
reads up to 10,000 ft and then gives me a 10.1k/ft reading. The second
thing I noticed was that it was darn cold and wet. The third thing I
noticed was that there was a working ski lift toward the top. The final
on most real thing I noticed was that the rain was turning to snow.
Yikes! It’s time to get off the mountain. About 10 minutes in a snow
flurry with my windshield solid with the white stuff was enough to get
my attention.